Friday, July 25, 2008

In my mind, I see the colours of green in nature as being different in different parts of the world. The greens Japan are thick and intense, as if God were trying to pack as much pigment as he could into as tiny a space as possible. The greens in Canada seem to be a bit more diluted under such an open, blue sky- the colours seem to dissipate in all the immense space. And the greens in Tuscany are yellow. Someone told me before I left that it would look like this, like it always does in the movies, but I was still surprised looking out the window of our train as we chugged into Florence yesterday. Everything seemed to be bathed in a yellow light. It looked exactly as I had always imagined. The landscape here is unbeleivable- what with the cypress and olive trees, and the sunflowers growing in feilds! Its so beautiful it breaks my heart. And I just can't get over how the world looks like you were looking at it through yellow-coloured glasses.

Today was the only day we actually got to spend in Florence. It was amazing. We split up and went our own ways in the morning, and met up in the afternoon to walk the old bridge that spans the river and take a stroll to visit our new idol: Michelangelo's David. If I ever find a guy with his body, all he has to do is say the word and I'm his! Hehe... just kidding of course, I'm not nearly that shallow. Though it would be nice. It wasn't the original of course, which is in a museum, we just made sure to see both of the two copies that exist in Florence. I of course spent the morning in the churches- the amazing Duomo, and Santa Maria Novella. I don't know what it is with my fascination with churches, but I love them. I love going inside and feeling the peace and wondering at all the people who have walked in through the ages to worship or admire. And their reasons for coming. There is this dark beauty to them that is hard not to be in awe of.

Like I said, we crossed the old bridge, Ponte Vecchio, which is lined entirely with jewelry stores on either side. Dani renamed it the "Golden Bridge". It was a great place to window shop- but I feel so poor that I think they would spot me kick me out as an imposer if I tried to go inside any of them. All I can do is gaze through the windows and dream... But by this time we were so hot and tired we decided to head back. I wanted to go into the Uffizi, but the line was ridiculously long (the guidebook says its not uncommon for the line-up to be a few hours long, before the gallery even opens), and like I said it was hot. So I got a strawberry gelato and enjoyed the street performers instead. Thats still art, right?
We are staying in a campground. We have these huge tents with bunkbeds in them, get eaten by mosquitoes every night, and have fun rigging our cheap flashlights with tape and rubber bands so that they will actually stay on without us having to hold the button down. Haha, we prepared for a lot of things, but didn't think that we would ever be someplace where a flashlight would be necessary!

The best thing about our campsite is that it is right beside the Piazza Michelangelo, very literally a two minute walk, from which you can see one of the best view of Florence. A bronze copy of David is in the middle of the piazza (hehe, I told you I loved him... so much that we sleep next to each other), and at night various street performers and local artists will come out, along with guys who sell knock- off Prada purses. Its beautiful at night. The city seems to transform into something from out of a dream, and being surrounded by the music and noise of locals and tourist alike feels surreal as you look out at the Duomo illuminated in the distance and see the lights of the buildings lining the Arno reflected in its waters.

I wish we had more time to spend in Florence. One day just wasn't enough. And I wish we had been able to see more of Tuscany too. Sigh... I suppose I'll just have to come back!!


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So the above blog on Florence took me 3 tries to finally write and finish. I don't know why I can't seem to finish these anymore. We are in Rome right now, the last of our stops before heading to Croatia for the next 3 or so weeks. Croatia and free internet, which means I can post pics. Being in Croatia also means not lugging our bags around until we are ready to go home, staying in one place night after night, and being able to eat real meals!!! A much needed break! Anywho, the point I was getting around to making is that I'm taking a break from this blog. I've asked Danijela to post something on here about Rome. It might be nice to hear someone else's persepective anyways, and as soon as I have something to say about Croatia I'll be back. It probably won't be long.

I do want to say that I'm afraid I might be morbid. And this is all I'll be saying about Rome on here: Today we went to the Capuchin Monastery, which has chapels containing the remains of thousands of dead monks. Bones decoratively line the walls and ceiling, even making up a type of chandelier. And the whole remains of some obviously more revered monks are laying or propped up standing in the middle of the chapels, wearing their hooded robes like the grim reaper, arms folded in front of themselves holding a cross. The atmosphere is very somber, we felt compelled to whisper as we stood looking at the remains in a mixture of some kind of disgust and awe. In the very last chapel/crypt, there were about 5, is a plaque which reads, "You are as we once were, and as we are you will be." On the ceiling of this one is an intact skeleton holding a scythe in one hand and an old counter-weight balance in the other. Haha- what a great way to get the message across that we are all going to die, and then our lives will turn into an eternity that reflects our time on earth. It made me wonder about these Christian monks though- were they just that fascintated with death and the afterlife, or were they trying to scare you into living a good life? Or maybe a bit of both? I'll be looking them up when I get home. I'm curious.

And if this is the coolest thing I see in Rome does that make me morbid?? Or my experience in Rome lacking something? I did sneak one illegal picture- and it is undeniably cool.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Right now we are in Cinque Terre, which is a group of five little villages on the west coast of Italy set against a backdrop of cultivated hills and mountains, whith walking paths and train tracks connecting each one.
We caught a bus up here along some windy hair-pin roads up to the top of a small mountain, where our hostel has the most amazing view. Today we did a bit of walking, we found out after that the two trails we happened to choose to walk were the easiest one, and then the very hardest! It was no worse than any other hike I've done in Girl's Camp or with my family, but it was so HOT!! We went up and down some crazy, rocky, and perilous stairs, along narrow paths that dropped straight down, and over some bridges. The easy one took 20 mins, and the hard one an hour and 20 mins. By the end of the day we were hot, tired, dirty, and sweaty. The view was amazing though. This has to be one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Its breathtaking to look out at all the steep hills with grapes planted on them in little steps going up and down, and colourful villages either at the top or at the bottom, right against the ocean that happens to be a very deep teal blue. I had no idea this kind of beauty even existed!
The nicest part is being able to take a break from the city!! And meet some of the cool people who are staying in our hostel!
Well thats all I have for now... this is a short one.
I appreciate all the comments you write, its nice to know that when I write these people actually read them, and hopefully somewhat enjoy them!! Hope you all are doing well too.
We are off to dinner at a pizzaria down the road, and my stomach is grumbling after all that walking we did today!

Sunday, July 20, 2008

In answer to your questions:
I am fully aware that Romeo and Juliet is a work of fiction, Juliet's house is really just one of those tourist traps. There is no authenticity in it at all. And yet thousands of people probably flock to it each year to see the balcony, to caress Juliet's right breast for good luck, and to add more graffiti to the walls. I will admit, the balcony and courtyard you stand in to look up to it is nothing special at all, just kinda blah. But the graffiti was really cool. I still fail to understand why so many people were interested in seeing it, even Dani. I mean, its kinda neat to see, but not that really... I could have skipped it and been all the happier. (sorry Dani, buts its true)

And Aida was the most amazing thing ever. I did enjoy it much more than I enjoyed the Rihanna concert too! It was just really cool to see an opera in such an old arena. The arena dates back from the 1st century, and is one of the most well preserved in the world. The outer wall practically destroyed in the 12th century, but the rest is well intact. The acoustics were amazing- you could hear the sound of their shoes squeak when they turned around- so you can only imagine how beautiful the operatic voices were! And all without any amplification. The theater holds 20,000, and was almost full! The story itself was both beautiful and heartbreaking and moving all at once. Sadly we had to leave during the intermission or we would miss our last bus home, and being stranded was something we didn't want to risk! So I will be looking Aida up when I come home and have every intention of seeing in in Edmonton if at all possible.

I've got on to finish this blog three times now and never seem to get around to being able to say what I want to about Venice before I have to get off. Its hard for me to express what I want to about this enchanting city in words. Nothing I seem to write seems to be good enough. But I love Venice, I really wish that we had more time here because its such an amazing place. So rather than describe what I've seen and everything that I love about it all, I'm just going to have to do with saying a few things about my favourite moments here. But know that if I could bring each and every one of you a little peice back I would! And as I type this there is a line behind me of about 4 people waiting to use the one computer we have at our hostel in Cinque Terre, so forgive me if I seem rushed because I am!!

My favourite moment in Venice took place in St. Mark's basilica. The basilica itself is breathtaking- when you walk in and gaze up you see the shimmering gold mosaics laid there hundreds of years ago and all the ornately carved statues and releifs. Its not hard to beleive that all the ornamentation was supposed to be representative of heaven! We waited in line for about 20 humid mins and then walked through the basilica, ending up at the altar they keep all the candles for lighting and just sitting and watching and feeling and taking it all in. It touched me to watch all those who were coming up to light candles for their deceased loved ones. Even Danijela lit one. No matter what these people thought or did with the rest of their lives, or what they would do when they walked out of the basilica, at that moment as they went about the sacred act of lighting a candle their hearts were turned to God and the divine. Even though my religious observances are very different, I couldn't help but feel the desire to light my own candle. The entire area just emitted a reverence that I could only observe, but not take part in.

Another thing I loved abot Venice were the little tiny reminders that people actually lived in that amazing city. Someone mowing the lawn in their garden, laundry hanging out the windows, a woman carrying her groceries over a bridge, people's boats rather than cars docked beside their houses. It shocked me. I don't know why- obviously people actually live in Venice. But still, I was surprised that Venetians do the same tedious things that you and I do every day of our lives, the only difference is that they do it in Venice, a city of water!

All in all, Venice may be my favourite. I think I loved it even more that Milan. I wanted so badly to stay longer, but I will just have to go back. And to anyone thinking of going to either Venice or Paris: I found Venice to be a much more romantic city than Paris, in many ways. If you want the list I can give it to you.

PS: We have avoided getting lost so completely as we did in Verona and Paris. I can't read a map to save my life and have absolutely no sense of direction, and Danijela's eyesight is failing so she has to squint to see road signs, and easily gets frusterated. We make quite the pair trying to find our way around!!

Pictures to be posted soon I hope...

Thursday, July 17, 2008

I have fallen in love with Milano, I think it may be one of my favourite places. But I thought that about Nurnberg too, so we'll see what else we encounter on the rest of our trip!

I can't even begin to describe the city- the hustle and bustle, and yet its a slower hustle than was in Paris. The old architecture, which never ceases to amaze me. The old churches- Il Duomo reminds me of a peice of white lace because it is so intricate and detailed. They also have an old castle, like just about every other city or town we have been in so far. Its red brick and has round towers on the corner and a gelato vendor outside. Dani and I tried some pistachio gelato (sadly, I think I'm allergic to pistachios)and sat in front of the fountain. It was nice to feel like we could slow down and relax for a bit- we sure weren't able to do that in Paris! If you don't know what I'm talking about, look it up! I'll get around to posting pics eventually. And then there is the shopping!! Everything from Prada and Armani to little trendy boutiques to specialty stores. I saw a store that sold only boxers! It made me laugh!

When we arrived in Milano we saw that just outside of the train station MTV was setting up a huge stage and preparing to block off half the road for some kind of concert. At least, we were hoping it was going up and not coming down! Throughout the day we watched the progress as lights went up and balloons were filled, getting more curious by the minute. Who on earth was MTV sending to do a concert in Milano? And surely it wouldn't be anyone we knew, it was probably just some Italian artist we wouldn't know of, or else it would happen after we left. Our luck wasn't that great! Imagine our excitement when we looked it up and found out that we just happened to be in Milano at the same time as a huge music festival- featuring some big name Italian musicians as well as Dani's fave Rihanna!!! We kept saying over and over to ourselves how we couldn't beleive our luck!

So we went to the concert on the last night of our stay in Milano. We felt even luckier when we found out that it was free! It was amazing! The place was packed 3/4 down the block, with people even watching from the balconies and office windows of the nearby buildings. We got there early and were able to stand up pretty close to the front, and were crammed in there with a bunch of Italians like sardines in a tin! The Italian artists that performed were actually really good, I'm going to have to find out who they are now! But Rihanna is who we came to see. Like I said, Dani is a huge fan of hers and has always wanted to go to one of her concerts. I'm not as big a fan as she is, but I do like her songs! Everyone screamed and yelled and cheared and jumped up and down when she finally came out to sing, last of course. It was really funny to listen to all the Italians singing along to:
"Now that it's raining more than ever
Know that we'll still have each other
You can stand under my umbrella
You can stand under my umbrella..."
Hehe they sang it all with an Italian accent and it made me giggle to listen to them. It was really cool to just stand in the crowd and soak it all in- everyone around me swaying or singing to the music. It was hard to beleive that I was actually there, in Milan, Italy, attending a Rihanna concert with 15,000 Italians. I think its going to be hard to top this one!!

Right now we are in Verona- famous for its 1st century Roman arena which still olds open air opera performances, and for being the place of Juliet's balcony. (although this is up for some debate, popular myth holds it as her balcony, but I have read also that the balcony was added in 1963 and they just called in Juliet's house to attract tourists- Romeo's house is supposedly down just a few blocks.)I was more impressed by the walls covered in lovers grafitti- a homage to Shakespeare's romantic tradgedy. Layers upon layers of grafitt, messages to Juliet, or people declaring their love for each other, things like Jane + John = true love 4 ever. It was actually really cool. There was grafitti everywhere.
Tonight we are attending Aida at the old arena. I am really excited- I love opera, and to attend one in an old Roman arena is probably a once in a life time experience. If you aren't jealous that I got to see Rihanna in concert in Milano, be jealous that I get to see an opera in a 1000 year old arena!

Hope all is going well with everyone back home... keep in touch please!

Monday, July 14, 2008

We are now in Milano. As we left Paris we heaved a sigh of releif, hoping that we would have a better experience here.
It really wasn't so bad I suppose. We did get to go to the Lourve, the Musee D'Orsay, the Pere Lachaise Cemetary, we got to see the Eiffel Tower lit up at night after eating at a cute little cafe. We also saw all of the other major sights: the Notre Dame (though sadly it was closed by the time we got there after getting lost for the umpteenth time), the Moulin Rouge, the Opera Garnier, the Hotel D'Invalides, we drove down the Champs Elysees and around the Napoleons Arc, and the Place De La Concorde. We didn't make it up to the Sacre Couer or to Montmarte because by the time we were supposed to go we were so completely exhausted, we didn't want to figure out how to get up there, and my one foot was so sore that I actually think I did some damage to the tendon or something by overworking it. It still hurts.
The best part of Paris was (in my opinion) the art museums. After learning about all the painters and art movements and analysing the paintings in my art history courses (which were my fave) it was really cool to see some of the originals. And be able to look at paintings I had never seen before and say things like that was influenced by this or that and pick out techniques that made each painting part of its specific movement. My favourite moment in the Lourve was stading in front of Gericault's "The Raft of the Medusa", depicted the ill-fated passengers of a shipwreck who survived by building a raft, but eventually turned to cannibalism because they ran out of food and began to starve. I know it sounds morbid, and its not the kind of painting I usually fall in love with, but it was truly amazing to look up at it. It was so huge and I couldn't help but think of how he actually visited the morgue and hospital to do studies of the dead and dying for it. It broke my heart to look at these people who were trying so hard to survive, but it left me in awe.
Another favourite moment in Paris was the night we saw the Eiffel Tower lit up. We wanted to see it after dark, but arrived a bit early, so walked down the road to a little cafe with seating out on the sidewalk. It ended up being our best dining experience yet. The food was deliciuous, the laid-back atmosphere contagious, and the waiter had a great sense of humour and kept us laughing after a long day. We sat in the grass after eating and waited for the Tower to light up. They have flood lights on it all night, they were blue when we were there, and every hour on the hour until midnight they turn on the big, blinking lights. When they finally came on everyone started cheering and camera flashes were going off all over the place. It felt like a dream to sit there and admire it in all its glory, it was everything I thought it would be. The good meal and relaxing on the grass probably helped too, but that night alone (almost) made all the bad things in Paris worth it.
If I were to go back (and I fully intend to so that I can do it all over again and do it right) I would do a million things differently. First I would be more prepared with the language- the French people are more and more polite the more you speak their language, though they still are as a whole very grumpy. (and after smelling all the metro stations I understand why- if I had to smell that every day going to and from school or work I would be grumpy too!)I would also make sure I stayed in a real hostel so that we could actually meet some cool people, rather than stay in a budget hotel located in the ghetto. And I would splurge and stay somewhere very central- it took us at least an hour to get home every night, more if we got lost, which happened at least once a day. It took us about half our stay to actually get the hang of the Metro, but now that I've got it seriously downpat next time would be a breeze. And finally, I would spend more than 4 days. There is a lot to see in Paris, and 4 days just isn't enough to get a feel for the city's character. There is a reason it attracts so many tourist, and I think its a shame we didn't get to discover that. It would have been a lot better if we would have been able to spend more leisure time, not be so rushed all the time, which just made us irritable. All in all though, it was a great learning experience. I am soooo glad its over, but at the same time I wouldn't hesitate to go again just because I'm convinced it could have been 10x better. And the next time I smell urine... I will remember Paris!
We have only been in Milano, as the Italians say, for one day and already I love it! There is such a different pace here- many of the stores close for a few hours in the afternoon and people aren't as rushed as they are in Paris. It feels safer to walk the streets at night, and the people are kinder! And our hotel!! It is so cute! Its about a 5 min walk from the train station in some really old building. Our room is so tiny- it is literally a corner with two cots in it! And thank heavens- the best part is we have a real shower!!! In Paris we had a shower, but no place to attach the shower head (which is apparenlty common in Europe), which isnt so bad. But our shower head was broken and shot out water every which direction, so we had to bath laying down. It was ridiculous, kinda defeated the whole point of the shower head. We took an open tour of the city today and were able to hop off and see the Duomo, the Castello, and some really fun shopping districts. It was relaxing to not have to do it all on our own, and to be off our feet. I do think I did some serious damage to my foot, so I'm going to take it easy, and get some new shoes! We did way to much walking that day in Paris. Tomorrow we are actually going inside Il Duomo, then to see the Da Vinci's "Last Supper" (which suprisingly Dani is more excited about than I am), and to do some shopping!! Yay! Next we are headed to Verona and then finally to Venice!

Thursday, July 10, 2008

I've spent less than 24 hours in Paris, seen a few sights, and already I'm ready to move on to the next place. Or even back to Germany, where we stayed with Dani's relatives, had an apartment to ourselves, and people to call and check in on us, take us out to eat, etc.
The train trip to Paris from Nurnberg was very uneventful. We arrived in Paris excited to finally be on our own, eager to see all the things we've spent months pouring over travel books getting info on, and only a little anxious about how we were going to get to our hotel with our luggage and our limited French. (And by limited I mean my French vocab pretty much consists of bonjour, merci, and some things I picked up from watching "Moulin Rouge"! Oh and the numbers 1-8, which I still remember from my days as a ballerina when I was about 6.) Nothing could have prepared us for the impression we were about to encounter.
The first thing I smelled when we stepped out of the train was urine, a smell that seemed to permeate everything in and around the station. Urine in the elevators, on the streets, up the stairs, by the washrooms, standing in line for our metro tickets, it was everywhere! Apparently, the train station we arrived at, on the east end of the city, is located in a really seedy neighbourhood, to say the least. Shady people approached us on the streets asking for something or other, and I can tell you that it wasn't directions! I was scared... I'm from a small town, I've lived a sheltered life, and the feeling of discomfort from walking down those streets was something I don't ever want to experience again. It probably didn't help that we didn't really know where we were going, and that we couldn't understand what the people on the streets where saying to us. I wanted to clam up and disappear, but that wouldn't have done anything.
Somehow we made it without incident to the other train station a few blocks away, where we would buy our metro tickets, our ticket to London, and catch the RER train to our hotel. Dani went and stood in lines for the tickets while I stayed by our luggage and was able to observe the goings-on of one of the busiest train stations in Europe. Here is what I saw (all with the faint stench of urine to accompany it): several pairs of police patrolling the station, more army officials in uniform and carrying guns, a couple of lost Asians who looked just about like I felt- like a fish out of water. There was also the woman who brought her young daughter to the side of the train track in the remote and somewhat secluded corner I was standing in, pulled down her underwear, and made her squat on the edge of the platform. (Now I understand the smell...) Then there was this very very dastardly looking individual, as my dad would say- I can think of no other fitting words, who I watched make a beeline from one of the platforms to the area behind me- a deserted counter hidden behind two large pieces of machinery. As much as I hate stereotypes he looked like your typical dirty-minded but harmless criminal- long greasy hair, dark stubble, faded and worn clothes, and strong BO. He went behind the counter and started sneakily doing something standing over there, with his hands busy and hidden from view behind the counter. I don't want to think about what he could have been doing, it may have been perfectly innocent, I don't know, but it made me nervous. By this time I had been waiting for Dani for about 30 mins, was getting a bit worried, tired, and hungry, and ready to leave if only so I could get away from the creepy man behind the counter. I didn't like Paris anymore.
Thankfully she came back just in the nick of time, with bad news. The train ticket for London had gone up in price from what we had originally thought it was going to be, it raised to somewhere in the vicinity of CDN $400+. We can't afford to pay that much, so we said goodbye to all that we were going to do in London: the really cool hostel, the London Eye, the National Gallery, the pub, the shopping, the English language. We've resigned to the fact that we will have to make a stop somewhere else in place of London. Maybe Milan, maybe Zurich, we don't know yet. Which admittedly, I'm kinda excited about.
Our hotel is pretty decent- the smell of urine is faint enough to get used to after a while, and the staff have been extremely helpful. We finally arrived after a few hours of navigating, all the while carrying all our luggage, flopped on the bed and exclaimed, "I want my mommy!" Today we got lost on the way to the Lourve, ended up hopping on an Open tour bus because we hadn't the faintest idea where we were or how to get to where we wanted to be. It was worth it- we got to see the sights without having to worry about getting there, crossing the street (because let me tell you- Parisian drivers are insane. I'm afraid I will get hit by a car crossing the street when the signal says "pedestrians go", and then bleed to death because the ambulance can't get there in time due to the amount of traffic and the fact that no one moves aside for them), and figuring out the metro and train systems. We are headed to the Louvre after this and all I can think is, "Lord, I hope art has the healing power I've always believed it to hold because otherwise, I hate Paris."
Am I jaded? Yes. Is my first impression of the city wrong and completely based on a string of bad luck and bad experiences, half of which I even left out, also probably yes.
If you have been worried about me, keep worrying. If you haven't, then I'd advise you to start. And hopefully by the time I get around to writing all my postcards from Paris, I've had some positive experiences to write about!
Written on Monday, July 7 and transferred from Facebook.

To my dismay, I realized yesterday that my blog was blocked at the internet cafe I am currently sitting in, and so I coudnt make my usual post!! Grrr. So this will have to do until I can log back in...
I am currently in Nürnberg, Germany. Home of the famous Nürnberg Laws and Nürnberg Trials, and where Hitler made many a speech. Sadly, to visit the courthouse, which is a ways away from the town center where we are staying, you have to take a train, a bus, and pay for a tour. Ugh, we have no money for any of that. But there is plenty else to see and do!

Dani is lucky enough to have an aunt who keeps an extra apartment that she lives in part time right in the heart of the city. The aunt- who is surprisingly even shorter than Dani and wears glasses that remind me of Professor Trelawney (she is so cute!), left for Croatia, and so we have the entire apartment to ourselves! We have really made ourselves at home- we bought groceries, unpacked as much as possible, know what time the best shows come on MTV in the evenings (because they are in English), and basically just pretend that its ours. Its a tiny, old, one bedroom. But the best part is the view from the balcony, from which you can see the church steeples, an old tower, part of the castle wall, the red shingle roof-tops of all the stores and houses, and a bunch of other old historic buildings. The first night I just kept walking out there and looking because it was so unbeleivably breathtaking.

From here we are going to Paris. We walked into the train station, were baffled by all the crowds and German (we dont speak any), and choose a line that looked promising. Lucky for us, the lady spoke english and was able to direct us to the right line to buy our Paris tickets!! While we were nervously waiting we talked to the sweetest old lady who was telling us enthusiastically about all the old building and all the ways in which Nürnberg is so important to German history. Talking to someone so eager and kind helped ease our nerves about the daunting station, and we were able to easily buy our tickets and locate our platform.

Nürnberg is a beautiful city. Our apartment is literally around the corner from the old downtown area, with all the best shopping, cafes, and churches. The steets are all lined with uneven cobblestone- everytime we walk on it I cant help of thinking how hard it would be to walk on it in heels! And yet I see people do it all the time- and they dont trip over cracks! Up a hill is the old castle- its quite a hike up there, but completely worth it. The views from the top are amazing. You can see the entire city, and the ambiance from walking around the old stone towers and walls of the castle are unreal. I feel like Ive stepped into a scene from a Shakespeare tradgedy. The old stables have been turned into a hostel, and they give out torches to the people staying their to explore the castle at night.

Interesting tidbit: I found Lush, its kitty-corner to one of the old churches. I could smell it from the corner and followed the scent almost subconsciously. Did I buy something? Of course! I cant go into that store and not come away with something!! Everything smells so amazing (and now so do I) and it makes me feel so pretty! I think its funny that I was so excited about doing something that I do on pretty much a regular basis back in Edmonton. But this time it was in Germany, which made it that much more exciting!! How many people have been to Lush in Germany?!?!

Magical moment of Nürnberg: the first day we got here it poured for a few hours. When it stopped we decided to go out for a walk. The streets were almost deserted, the stores closed, except for a few cafes. Walking down the across the bridge we could hear the laughter and clinking of glasses and silverware on plates of the people inside. We bought some ice cream (which we have had every day since we got here, its just that good) and meandered slowly back toward our apartment. On the way back we came across someone playing his violin on the street, he was actually really good. You could tell by the way that he played that he really felt the music inside of him. We sat down on a bench and looked up at the cathedral. I admired its architecture while listening to Dani talk, trying to place the time it was built. (roughly 1200-1300, late gothic) The combination of the atmosphere of the place, the smell of the rain, and the taste of the ice cream, and the awe of the cathedral made for a magical moment. I felt happy and thought that if I could do this kind of thing everyday, life would be good.

But perhaps its because I dont get to do that everyday that makes it so special.

I regret to inform you that I will not be able to post any pictures until I am somewhere where I dont have to pay to use the internet. Which will probably be in Croatia, in August, Ill post a few on facebook.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Have been soooo jet-lagged its not even funny! The first day wasn't so bad at all, but the second day we made the mistake of taking a midday nap, and that night I couldn't sleep at all!! In fact, not only could I not sleep, but the sleep I did manage to get was fitful and uncomfortable because of the heat. I forgot that this is the price one pays to travel (other than the actual $), having to adjust to a new time. Its torture! We are 8 hours ahead here in Germany.
Anywho. Germany. Crazy, I know. After my last post Dani and I explored the street we were on. Its like their old downtown area, all the building are soo old, many done in that German style where the wood criss-crosses in the front, and others with amazing releifs carved into the facades, and the streets are cobblestone!! There are stores all along the street- cafes and ice cream parlours, supermarkets, fruit stands, barbers, etc. Its all on a hill, so standing at the bottom of the street you can look up and at the top is the bell tower of their old church. I made Dani come with me all the way to the top so we could explore. The closer we got to the church, the more residential the area became, the street changed from allowing cars to only permitting pedestrians and bicyclers. The church ended up being deserted- I don't think they really use it anymore, at least not regularly. The church yard was shady, the grass slightly overgrown and peeking up between the stones. The foyer to the church was open, but the rest were all blocked off. Walking into the foyer you could peek inside the chapel- at the old, worn, pews and the simple stained-glass windows, the paintings steeped in Christian symbolism, and the ornate cross on the wall at the far end. It smelled of dust and age, and there was an air of serenity about it all. As if the church were saying, "Come, bask in my antiquated peace, and I will show you a Germany of yesteryear." It made me think of barefooted children chasing each other around the church yard while their mothers watched on and chatted about the latest bit of gossip, and their fathers discussed business matters, some 200 years ago. It was a beautiful feeling.
Yesterday the temperature rose to 31 C, which we figured was pretty unbearable. We spent the day inside, or under the shady umbrellas drinking orange Coke. We went for a short walk once, but but by the time we got back to the house we thought we might get heat stroke!! We are kinda wimps when it comes to the heat! Today the temperature is supposed to reach 34 C (aagghhh!!), and we couldn't justify staying in all day again. And so we made the 15 min trek down to the internet cafe. Sigh. We are doing something else later this afternoon when her cousins get back from school. I just hope they don't plop an entire half a chicken on my plate for lunch again!
Last night we went on a walk in a park in Fürth. Along the way we came across a playground that had statues of fairytale characters along its edges. My favorite was the Princess and the Frog. Dani and I couldn't resist- we eached kissed the frog (and got pics too, hehehe) with the hopes that he might turn into a prince and whisk us away, paying for the rest of out trip. It hasn't happened yet, but we aren't giving up hope so easily.